I have resently come to that realisation that my pedals are broken and cannot be fixed. The probably could but the manufactura are not that into spareparts Currently I am using a Simped F16/c but they are are very expensive and since I donāt have a job at the moment it would take me a couple of months saving up for a replacement.
The lack of correct movement with my pedals are killing the fun of flying
and I canāt go back to using a rotary. Tried it, and it is literaly killing me :rolleyes:
I am looking for a set of USB pedals and have seen the following pedals on the marked.
I use a set of Saitek Pro pedals and a set of CH pedals so Iāll give you what I think about them.
The CH products are of a rugged design and simple construction. I have had mine kicking around under a desk for at least 6-7 years with absolutley no maintenance apart from the occasional passing over of a hoover They are still as good today as the day I bought them. One design feature that I think helps is that none of the internal moving parts are exposed which prevents dust collecting internally. These pedals have and still do serve me very well and I would not even think twice about buying another pair or making their recomendation.
My Saitek pedals are a more recent acquisition, Iāve had these for about 2 years. The construction of these pedals is a lot more complex and I think will possibly see them failing before the CH product. I find these pedals are also more prone to sliding around on the floor which is why I have mine pushed back against the wall, fortunately I have long legs One design feature that I really prefer over the CH products is the size of the actual footplates of these pedals they are significantly larger on the Saitek, which if you have big feet I am sure you will prefer. Another key difference is the spacing between the pedals the CH foot plates are only approx 3" apart meaning your feet and legs are fairly close together to use them. The Saitek pedals are much wider apart and if you fly for real then the Saitek pedals will feel more natural and ārudder likeā I think the CH pedals are great rudder pedals but because of the design are similiar in appearance to car pedals with little space between each pedal, the Saitek units looks much more like a realistic rudder pedal setup.
If I had to buy one pair I would find it hard to choose between the two right now, on one hand I prefer the size of the Saiteks but I also have the proven track record and reliability of the CH Pro Pedals. If these Saitek units are still working in 5 years time then I would probably choose Saiteks. Ultimately I think it comes down to personal preference and price. Try to find someone nearby or a shop that has stock so you can try them on for size.
I magine that the axis of the rudder pedals are an axis from 0 - 100% on a virtual axis.
This corresonds to a physical axis.
They should be devided 50% to the left and 50% to the right when they are callibrated.
So 100% physical movement from the center to the left should give you 50% and 100% physical movement to the right should take all 50%.
Pressing the right pedal the right axis behaves as it should. 100% physical movement use all the 50% of the axis movement in my callibration display.
BUT when I press the Left pedal the fun begins.
When I have pressed between 30-50% of the physical movement I have used all 50% of the Left axis.
Essentially I get the double amount reaction of the Left foot. I reach 100% rudder deflection when I have pressed 50% of the possible physical axis.
(Guess what happends in a dogfight when I am defensive :rolleyes: I thought I was paniking but it turned out I am having a hardware problem.)
Do you get the meaning or should I try to explain differently?
Yeah, I know what happens. You pull what I call a āStarfireā and usually fall to the ground in a blaze of glory, leaving me 1 v 2 or more, lol;)
But back to the topic of pedals. Classic says it all. I have the CH Pro Pedals and they are great, but not as realistic feeling as the Saitek and yes I have tried them and they do feel and move nicer than CH. But CH is rugged and once you get used to them it doesnāt bother me that they donāt feel like a Cessna 172. And if youāve never flown a real airplane you wonāt know what your missing anyway.
No the pedals and throttle are independent. The KG13 needs the base and because Tarmacs aces went belly up before the OP got the stick base, he is selling the lot. If I had Ā£300 spare Iād have them and the throttle too.
I get what you mean, and must be a real pain. But I still think it might be fixable. I have had problems with the cable from my (old) rudder pedals to the Cougar, and that was somewhat similar. I had problems calibrating, and if I was unlucky and moved the cable so the connection broke all went to out of calibration. Not saying you have the same problem, but it might be something (farily) easy like that.
I had some problems a few years ago similar to to yours Mikke. I solved it by replacing the main cable.
Your post made me recheck the cable and I found a break on the connection where it is attached to the Cougar. It might be the problemā¦
Check a black, cubic piece, like 1 cm side, in the center of the front bar of the pedals. In my case it was loose, and had the same exact problem as you: at 50% it was 100% in-game.
This should be a pretty simple fix for a tech guy like you. Mind you I took apart my old pedals the other day to take out a potentiometer to put into my Joystick and almost didnāt get them back together againā¦It was very difficult, but I managed in the end.
There are tech and there are tech. I have a nack for knowing how stuff affect other stuff , but fixing itā¦This is not my area of expertise. I do not have all the tools and I canāt solving because I do not have the fine motorskill that is required. But your confidence in me makes me warm and fuzzy
I disassembled the connection at the Cougar and and except for broken plastick there are no broken wires. The wires from the Cougar to the pedals are unbroken.
Before I made this post I disassambled the pedals and greased them. I cleaned the top surface whiched was dirty with magnete dust because the ball rollers had cut groves into the surface and lowered the space between pedal holding bars. I reversed the metal strips where the balls run and greased the balls All to no effect except from more smooth movement.
I made sure that the wires inside the pedal was firmly curled and inserted into the groove inside.
Currently I am using a Simped F16/c but they are are very expensive and since I donāt have a job at the moment it would take me a couple of months saving up for a replacement.
One design feature that I really prefer over the CH products is the size of the actual footplates of these pedals they are significantly larger on the Saitek, which if you have big feet I am sure you will prefer. Another key difference is the spacing between the pedals the CH foot plates are only approx 3" apart meaning your feet and legs are fairly close together to use them. The Saitek pedals are much wider apart and if you fly for real then the Saitek pedals will feel more natural and ārudder likeā I think the CH pedals are great rudder pedals but because of the design are similiar in appearance to car pedals with little space between each pedal, the Saitek units looks much more like a realistic rudder pedal setup.